The Farallon Islands are a breathtaking and secluded archipelago located off the coast of San Francisco, California, USA. Protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service as the Farallon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, the islands are nestled within the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, a NOAA-managed marine sanctuary that spans 3,295 square miles of ocean and coast. The Farallon Islands and their surrounding waters are a globally important hotspot for marine biodiversity, especially known for amazing whales, abundant seals and sea lions, a large and diverse seabird population, and great white sharks. The islands and their waters are truly unique and unmatched in all the wildlife they offer.
Oceanic Society has been leading trips to the Farallon Islands since 1972, and this guide draws on our 50+ years of knowledge and experience. In it, we will explore the beauty, biodiversity, and rich history of the Farallon Islands, while providing essential information for those planning to visit this remarkable wildlife sanctuary.
A humpback whale breaches in front of the Farallon Islands. Located approximately 28 miles offshore from San Francisco, California, the islands are a haven for marine wildlife including marine mammals, seabirds, and sharks. © Michael Pierson
This guide is updated regularly with new information.
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Introduction
Only visible on the clearest of days from San Francisco, the Farallon Islands are home to a vivid history, buckets of lore, and a wealth of biodiversity. Breaching humpback whales, enormous white sharks, hundreds of thousands of seabirds, and a variety of pinniped species inhabit the islands’ surrounding waters. The rocky shores and plummeting depths make this area a prime feeding destination for wildlife and provide a nesting and resting place for migratory birds. Whether it’s to spot cetaceans, glimpse a legendary white shark, or witness a Tufted Puffin in its glorious breeding plumage, the Farallon Islands are a premiere destination for wildlife lovers!
While stepping ashore the Farallon Islands is limited to scientists and specialists, it’s possible for anyone to journey out to the waters around this exclusive destination. Departing from San Francisco, a round trip takes roughly eight hours. But for those willing to come aboard, the sights can be incredibly rewarding.
The Farallon Islands rise dramatically out of the Pacific Ocean, made of rugged granite bedrock and separated from the mainland for more than 10,000 years. © Michael Pierson
Location of the Farallon Islands
Geography and Geology
Located about 27 miles west of San Francisco, California, the Farallon Islands are a grouping of islands and sea stacks that make up a National Wildlife Refuge. The location of these rocky islands offers a relatively safe resting place for animals, as the islands are far enough offshore but also close to major food sources. The chain is made up of 7 islands and totals around 211 acres in size. Composed of granite bedrock, believed to originate from the southern Sierra Nevadas, the islands have been separated from the mainland for over 10,000 years.
The islands are positioned along well-traveled migratory routes for wildlife, and are surrounded by productive, food-rich waters thanks to some unique oceanography, described in detail below. Thanks to this combination of factors, cetaceans, pinnipeds, fish, sharks, turtles, invertebrates, and a variety of seabirds can all be found on and around the islands.
Currents and Upwelling
The Farallon Islands are positioned amid the California Current, a strong current of cool water originating in British Columbia, Canada and flowing south to the southern tip of Baja California Sur, Mexico. In addition, the region’s strong, sustained northwest winds contribute to upwelling, a process by which deeper, colder water is pulled upward toward the surface, bringing nutrients along with it. Together, these two processes create a highly productive and diverse food web that attracts wildlife to the area.
A wide range of marine species are drawn to the food-rich waters surrounding the Farallon Islands, including abundant humpback whales and seabirds. © Chris Biertuempfel
Wildlife of the Farallon Islands
The Farallon Islands support an abundance of wildlife above and below the surface, but it wasn’t always this way. Through intensive exploitation of wildlife, from gray whales to fur seals to Common Murre eggs, European and Russian colonists nearly wiped out many of the species that are now thriving on and around the Farallon Islands. Thanks to dedicated conservation efforts over several decades, many species have rebounded from the brink of extinction, and the islands have been restored to a more natural state.
In the following sections, we'll explore the incredible and diverse wildlife that inhabit the Farallon Islands and the surrounding waters that encompass the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary.
Marine Mammals — Cetaceans (Whales, Dolphins, Porpoises)
Marine mammals of all kinds can be found near the Farallones due to the area’s food rich waters and the availability of haul out areas for seals and sea lions. Thirty-six species of marine mammals can be found in the Greater Farallones—we’ll explore some of the most abundant and noteworthy ones here!
Most famously, humpback whales are frequent in the area, which is considered a critical feeding habitat for the species. From spring through late fall, whales feed in the Sanctuary before traveling south to warmer waters for mating and calving purposes. Humpbacks are especially fun to spot, as they are known for being charismatic acrobats. Whale watchers often get to enjoy humpbacks lunge feeding, breaching, slapping their pectoral flippers and more!
Additionally, the waters near the Farallon Islands are important for the eastern North Pacific population of gray whales. This species can be spotted from winter to spring on their migration to and from the Arctic and Mexico. Blue whales—the largest animals on Earth—are also found here and seen regularly by whale watchers. The area is an important feeding ground for these massive and endangered animals, which eat several tons of krill per day!
While more difficult to spot, fin whales also pass through the Sanctuary during the summer to feed. Sperm whales are also found near the Farallon Islands, but they are very rarely seen.
A variety of dolphins also spend time in the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary. The Pacific white-sided dolphin is often seen frolicking in the waves off the islands. This species is easily spotted, as individuals can travel in pods of up to 1,000!
The common bottlenose dolphin is a crowd favorite as well, as these playful animals are found in the Reserve year-round and can even be seen in San Francisco Bay! Short-beaked common dolphins are also present year-round, and these sociable mammals can often be seen jumping out of the water or near the surface. Not as commonly spotted, the northern right whale dolphin prefers offshore areas; however, the Sanctuary is considered an extremely important habitat for the species. Risso’s dolphins can be seen year-round and are easy to spot due to their distinctive scars, which come from other dolphins and even squid beaks (since squid are a primary food source)!
Another distinctive dolphin seen in the Farallon Islands is the killer whale, or orca! Multiple ecotypes have been documented in the area; however, transient (Bigg's) killer whales are the ones most often spotted.
In addition to dolphins, various porpoise species also frequent the waters off the Farallon Islands. Of note, the Sanctuary is an extremely important habitat for harbor porpoises, which can be found in the area year-round. Dall’s porpoises are also common in the region, which is an important area for feeding and breeding.
Marine Mammals — Pinnipeds (Seals, Sea Lions)
The Farallones are furthermore known for hosting a large number of pinniped species. California sea lions are a common species in the region, as they use the area as both a feeding and breeding ground. The largest sea lion species, Steller sea lions, are listed as near threatened by the IUCN and can be found in the sanctuary, which is considered a vital habitat for the species.
While the vulnerable northern fur seal spends most of its time at sea, they breed on six known islands, one of which is South Farallon Island. Guadalupe fur seals can also be seen off the Islands. While they are most abundant near Guadalupe Island, Mexico, small numbers have been documented in the Sanctuary. They are distinguished from Northern fur seals primarily by their smaller size and more elongated snout. The harbor seal is also a common sighting in the Farallones, as this species often hauls out to rest on beaches and rocks. The largest pinniped in the area is the northern elephant seal, which seasonally breeds on the islands. The region is also an important feeding area for the species.
Marine Mammals — Fissipeds (Otters)
Southern sea otters are found in the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, but are not typically seen near the Farallon Islands themselves. © Chris Biertuempfel
In addition to cetaceans and pinnipeds, the Greater Farallones also contain important habitat for two otter species. The Sanctuary is near the northern edge of the Southern sea otter’s range, although it’s very unlikely to see one at the Farallones. North American river otters also visit marine habitats that are part of the Greater Farallones, as well as freshwater ones.
Thousands of Common Murres cover the shores of the Farallon Islands during breeding season. The islands are home to the largest seabird colony in the contiguous United States. © Michael Pierson
Seabirds
The Farallon Islands are well known for their incredible diversity and abundance of seabirds. In fact, the Farallon Islands host the largest seabird breeding colony in the contiguous United States, and hundreds of thousands of Common Murres nest on the islands each year! Thanks to the substantial upwelling, the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary offers fantastic feeding opportunities for seabirds, making the area an important habitat for over 160 species. Migrating pelagic (open ocean) species are even known to fly thousands of miles to feed in these productive waters. In addition, the islands are an important stop along the Pacific Flyway, which is the migration path from birds’ southern wintering grounds to their northern breeding grounds.
In addition to Common Murres, which are by far the most abundant, a wide range of other seabird species also nest on the Farallon Islands, including: Brandt’s Cormorant, Double-crested Cormorant, Pelagic Cormorant, Tufted Puffin, Ashy Storm-Petrel, Pigeon Guillemot, Rhinoceros Auklet, Cassin’s Auklet, and Western Gull.
Pelagic seabirds are often spotted in the Sanctuary’s waters as well, with many traveling great distances to feed here. The Red-necked Phalarope, Pink-footed Shearwater, Brown Booby, Black-footed Albatross, and Sooty Shearwater are a few of the highlighted species in the area.
A Northern Gannet, known locally as "Morris" has been visiting the Farallon Islands since 2012. Northern Gannets are an Atlantic species, and Morris is the only known member of his species in the Pacific Ocean. © Michael Pierson
In addition, the Farallon Islands are known to host regionally rare and vagrant bird species. Most notable is the single Northern Gannet, known to local birders as “Morris,” who has regularly visited the islands since 2012. Northern Gannets are an Atlantic Ocean species, and Morris is the only known member of his species in the Pacific Ocean. Blue-footed Boobies have also been seen at the islands on many occasions in recent years, well outside of their normal range. Many other vagrant bird species have been spotted at the Farallones over the years, perhaps more than any other wildlife sanctuary in the United States.
Many shorebirds can also be spotted along the sandy and rocky coastlines of the Farallon Islands, including Sanderlings, Black Oystercatchers, and Long-billed Curlews.
A leatherback turtle near the Farallon Islands. Though they are rare to see, leatherbacks migrate all the way from Indonesia to feed on abundant jellyfish near the islands every fall. © Peter Winch
Sea Turtles
Four different species of sea turtles have been documented in the Greater Farallones. Leatherback turtles are most likely to be seen. Every fall, they arrive to the coast of California from their nesting areas in Indonesia, all the way across the Pacific Ocean. They are drawn to feed on abundant jellyfish, and the Sanctuary is considered a critical habitat for this endangered species.
Olive ridleys, loggerheads, and green turtles have also been reported in the Greater Farallones, but their presence is rare and irregular.
A white shark swims in the waters near the Farallon Islands. A robust population of white sharks visits the waters off the islands each year, drawn by abundant food. The islands are considered the best natural laboratory for scientists to study these apex predators. © NOAA
Fish
The waters of the Farallones are an important habitat for all sorts of fish, both bony and cartilaginous. Due to the productive nature of these waters, hundreds (if not thousands) of species can be seen here.
Cartilaginous fish, including sharks, rays, and skates, are abundant off the Farallon Islands. Most notably, the area is known for its high number of white sharks. Every fall, adult and subadult great whites frequent the area. The high productivity of the waters off the islands result in a plethora of prey, primarily marine mammals, for these top predators. Consequently, year after year, the sharks return to the region to feast, and many individuals are known to researchers. While great whites are the biggest celebrities, other sharks also frequent the islands, including the common thresher shark, bigeye thresher shark, shortfin mako, basking shark, blue shark, leopard shark, broadnose sevengill shark, bluntnose sixgill shark, and the pacific spiny dogfish. Additionally, bat rays, round stingrays, California skates, and big skates inhabit the waters off the Farallones.
Ocean sunfish (Mola mola) are frequently seen in waters surrounding the Farallon Islands. © Michael Pierson
A large variety of bony fish are also found in the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary. Notable nearshore fish include: coho salmon, chinook salmon, sockeye salmon, chum salmon, pink salmon, rainbow trout, kelp bass, Pacific barracuda, and giant sea bass. Coastal pelagic fish like the ocean sunfish, Pacific sardine, and northern anchovy are also abundant in the area. Groundfish, including the lingcod, cowcod, Pacific ocean perch, canary rockfish, Yelloweye rockfish, Kelp greenling, Pacific halibut, petrale sole, and Pacific sanddab, are plentiful as well! The Sanctuary’s waters are also home to highly migratory fish, such as Bluefin tuna. Other bony fish off the Farallones include eels and eel-like fish (wolf eel, California moray eel, monkeyface prickleback).
Invertebrates
Many invertebrate species are found off the Farallon Islands, with more than 300 species documented. Mollusks, particularly nudibranchs, snails, squid, and octopus, are abundant. Echinoderms, including sea stars and urchins, play an important role in the ecosystem as well, as do jellyfish, anemones, and other cnidarians. The Sanctuary’s waters also offer habitats for poriferans (marine sponges) and polychaetes (a type of marine worm). Various arthropods can be found in nearly every marine environment the Sanctuary covers. Crabs, shrimp, and krill are just a few examples of the species found in habitats from the shoreline to the deep sea.
Farallon weed (also known as maritime goldfield) blankets many parts of the islands. In spring, the vibrant green leaves and yellow flowers create a dramatic landscape. © Michael Pierson
Flora of the Farallon Islands
Marine Plants
The waters and shores of the Farallon Islands host all sorts of marine plant species. Over two hundred species of algae and seagrass have been found in the waters of the sanctuary. We’ll dive in and touch upon some of the most common or interesting species here.
The Farallones contain a number of species of brown algae or kelp. The area is well-known for bull kelp, which has sadly been declining off California’s coast in recent years. Luckily, the Greater Farallones Kelp Restoration Project is working to preserve this species (and others). Giant kelp is also found in the reserve and is the basis for the impressive kelp forests around the islands. A couple other notable kelp species in the refuge are feather boa kelp and winged kelp.
Giant kelp forms impressive kelp forests around the Farallon Islands. © Claire Fackler / NOAA
Green algaes are also found off the Farallon Islands. Different kinds of sea lettuces can be seen in the islands’ intertidal areas. Another fun intertidal find is commonly known as dead man’s fingers, which, you guessed it, kind of resembles fingers.
Additionally, a variety of red algaes live in the Greater Farallones. Typically found in the intertidal zone, the green or purple colored nori can be spotted off the islands’ coastlines. Rubbery iridescent algae is often found in the area’s rocky tide pools and along rocks, and crustose coralline algae frequently covers these rocks as well.
The Sanctuary contains two species of seagrass, which are the only true marine plants, meaning they belong to the plant kingdom. Eelgrass is the main species found along the coasts of the Farallon Islands. Eelgrass beds are vital habitats for fish and other species and can even act as nurseries! Furthermore, the plant protects the coast from erosion and increases water quality by helping to filter sediments and pollution. It also acts as a carbon sink, meaning it absorbs carbon from the environment.
Terrestrial Plants
The Farallon Islands themselves are home to a variety of native and invasive plant species. The most common native plants found on the islands include maritime goldfield, or Farallon weed, (Lasthenia maratima), sticky sandspurry (Spergularia macrotheca), fiddleneck (Amsinckia spectabilis), red maids (Calandrinia ciliata), common chickweed (Stellaria media) and miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata). In the late winter and early spring, wildflowers come into bloom on the islands in a kaleidoscope of yellows, whites, purples, and reds. The maritime goldfields, which blanket some areas of islands, create a particularly dramatic boost of color, with bright green leaves and yellow flowers.
A number of introduced and invasive plant species are also found on the islands. The most common species include New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonoides), ripgut brome (Bromus diandrus), foxtail barley (Hordeum murinum leporinum), cheeseweed (Malva parviflora), buckhorn plantain (Plantago coronopus), and others. Invasive plants are problematic on the islands because they are able to outcompete native plants and can impact wildlife habitats, particularly nesting areas for seabirds. Of these, the most problematic are New Zealand spinach and buckhorn plantain. Efforts are underway to monitor and manage invasive plants on the islands, which include selective herbicide application.
History of the Farallon Islands
The Farallon Islands were of cultural significance to the first peoples of the Bay Area, some of whom reportedly called them the “Islands of the Dead.”
The first European explorers are thought to have visited the islands in the 16th century. Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo may have stopped at the islands on his 1539 expedition along the coast of California. But the first official records were not until 1579, when Sir Francis Drake stopped for only a day to find more food for his crew.
The Islands received their current name in the 17th century; the word farallon means “cliff” in Spanish. In his diary, Friar Antonio de la Asunción described the islands as “seven farallones close together.”
History of Exploitation
The Farallones were first inhabited in the 19th century by Russians, primarily fur hunters. They lived on Southeast Farallon, which is the only island that is large enough for human settlement. During this time on the islands, an estimated 200,000 fur seals were killed, locally extirpating the species, as the population did not reestablish until 1993. After this “Fur Rush,” there was a brief period of quiet until the next round of humans ventured to the area.
Egg-gatherers collect Common Murre eggs on Southeast Farallon Island in the 1870s.
During the California Gold Rush, food was so scarce on the mainland that men traveled to the islands in search of sustenance. This led to men harvesting seabird eggs and selling them as a food source; millions of common murre eggs were sold in the 1850s. These eggs became such a commodity that men fought and killed over them (an episode deemed the “Egg War”), until 1890, when the Secretary of the Interior banned egg harvesting on the Islands. This period of activity resulted in a greatly decimated population of murres.
In the nineteenth century, construction also began on the Farallons, as San Francisco became a major seaport and the number of shipwrecks off the rocks escalated. In 1855, the first Fresnel lens lighthouse was built on southeast Farallon Island, and several lighthouse keepers and their families lived on the island to maintain the light. Though automated now, the Farallon Island Light is still in use today.
Construction continued into the twentieth century as well. Most notably, a weather station was completed in 1903 by the U.S. Weather Bureau to send weather reports back to the mainland for sailors. In 1905, the Navy took over control of the station, which was later used for communication during World War I and World War II.
History of Conservation
Middle Farallon and the North Farallons were designated by President Theodore Roosevelt as the 24th refuge “as a preserve and breeding ground for native birds” (Executive Order 1043, Feb. 27, 1909). Southeast Farallon Island was later added in 1969. In 1974, all islands except Southeast Farallon were appointed the Farallon Wilderness by Congress. Additionally, in 1971, the state of California established the islands as a state refuge, including one nautical mile from the coast of each island, which allowed for basic protections of the islands and their fauna.
A researcher on Southeast Farallon Island. Biologists from Point Blue Conservation Science have been based on the island since 1968. © Michael Pierson
Biologists from Point Reyes Bird Observatory (now Point Blue Conservation Science) first officially visited the islands in 1967 and have been permanently stationed there since 1968. Collaborative efforts between the U.S Fish and Wildlife Service and PRBO began in 1971, focusing on protection, management, and research.
Currently, the surrounding waters are under the care of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, as part of the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary (GFNMS) and the Farallon Islands State Marine Conservation Area (including the North Farallon Islands and the Southeast Farallon Island) respectively.
A humpback whale surfaces near a container ship in waters off of San Francisco. Ship strikes are a significant conservation concern for whales near the Farallon Islands. © Rhys Watkin
Current Conservation Efforts
With so many amazing species found on and around the Farallon Islands, and a long history of exploitation of the islands, there is a great need for conservation. The islands themselves comprise the Farallon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which is under the care of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. And they are nestled amid the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, a protected area managed by NOAA that encompasses over 3,000 square miles of coastal and offshore waters. The Marine Mammal Center’s Whale Safe program is also notable, as it aims to further protect the region’s cetaceans by minimizing ship strikes.
The Greater Farallones Association has a variety of programs that focus on research and conservation of the species that rely on the Sanctuary. From kelp restoration to whale conservation efforts, science is ongoing and there are continuous efforts to protect the area and all who use it.
Point Blue Conservation Science is another organization that has worked for decades to study, protect, and restore the Farallon Islands. Point Blue operates a year-round field station on Southeast Farallon Island, from which biologists and conservationists work to study and protect the islands’ wildlife and habitats.
Want to help? One of the best ways to further conservation efforts is by visiting the Farallon Islands and spreading the word. Listen, learn, and share how amazing the Farallon Islands are with others! If you are looking to go a little further and have time to commit, you can check out some other opportunities, such as volunteering at the Sanctuary!
The only way to visit the Farallon Islands is by boat. The round trip from San Francisco takes around 7.5 hours and offers the chance to see the incredible wildlife and landscapes of the Farallones. © Michael Pierson
Visiting the Farallon Islands
The Farallon Islands can only be visited by boat, as they are closed to the public in order to protect wildlife. Thankfully, the amazing wildlife of the Farallon Islands can be readily seen from a boat. To visit the Farallon Islands by boat, join an all-day Oceanic Society whale watching trip that departs from San Francisco. Trips are offered on weekends from April into December, and passengers can see a variety of whale, seabird, and pinniped species, with a very high probability of sightings. Learn more about our whale watching trips to the Farallon Islands.
Oceanic Society has been leading whale watching trips to the Farallon Islands since 1972. Trips depart from San Francisco aboard the Salty Lady. © Rhys Watkin
Frequently Asked Questions
Does anyone live on the Farallon Islands?
Only researchers and scientists live on the Farallong Islands today, on Southeast Farallon Island (SEFI), where they study and observe seabirds and other wildlife.
Only researchers live on the Farallon Islands today, on Southeast Farallon Island. © Michael Pierson
Can you visit the Farallon Islands?
You are not allowed to set foot on any of the islands (only scientists are permitted), but you can visit the islands by boat! Oceanic Society offers Farallon Islands whale watching trips guided by our amazing naturalist team.
Why are the Farallon Islands considered dangerous?
The Farallon Islands have a reputation for being “dangerous” for several reasons. For one, ocean conditions around the islands can be rough, with strong currents, high winds, and significant swells all possible. In addition, the craggy islands can be hard to see in the dense fog that often surrounds the area, which has posed a hazard for ships historically. In fact, more than 400 ship and aircraft wrecks have been reported in the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary historically. Thanks to modern technology (e.g. GPS navigation), shipwrecks are no longer a big concern.
In addition, the waters surrounding the islands are home to a large number of great white sharks during certain times of year, adding to the islands' "dangerous" reputation. However, none of these pose any threat to our passengers. We have safely operated our Farallon Islands whale watching trips for more than 50 years.
Dense fog often surrounds the craggy islands, which led to shipwrecks historically. © Michael Pierson
Can you see the Farallon Islands from San Francisco?
On a clear day, yes, you can spot the Farallon Islands from coastal areas of San Francisco and Marin County! The islands are about 27 miles west of the city.
More Reading
Looking for more information? Explore the following links for more reading about the Farallon Islands.
General Information
- Field Notes: Farallon Islands with Peter Winch (Oceanic Society)
- Farallon Islands Live Webcam (California Academy of Sciences)
- Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary (NOAA)
- A History of San Francisco's Wild, Raw Farallon Islands (KQED)
- Farallon Islands National Wildlife Refuge (USFWS)
- Greater Farallones Association
- History of Human Occupation on the Farallon Islands (Shark Stewards)
- Life on the Farallones: Science on the SPOT (film by KQED)
Wildlife Sightings & Naturalist Reports
- Los Farallones - Dispatches from the Farallon Islands (Point Blue Conservation Science)
- Oceanic Society whale ID sightings (Happywhale)
- Whale Watchers Treated to Rare Sperm Whale Sighting Near Farallon Islands
- Rescued Sea Lion Found Thriving in the Wild
- Exhilarating Encounter with Bigg’s Killer Whales During Recent Whale Watching Trip
- Sighting of Rare Leucistic Killer Whale at the Farallon Islands
- Killer Whale Sightings Near Farallon Islands Support Research
- Sightings (months & recaps) not an exhaustive list
